A baker's true colors fly with Argentine alfajores and queer tango

Andreas Ozzuna takes asado seriously. Which is surprising, because Ozzuna is actually a baker, the owner of Wooden Table Baking Co. and Wooden Table Cafe in Oakland, where the specialty is Argentinian sweets like alfajores and conitos. But the importance of asado becomes clear in the center of Ozzuna’s lower Oakland hills backyard, which is gorgeously landscaped with large stepping stones and shrubs. For there sits an Argentine parrilla, a wood-fired grill hand-built from cement, bricks and a cast iron grate. Ozzuna — who prefers the pronouns “they” and “them” — stands proudly at the parrilla on a sunny day that makes you forget it’s winter, patiently charring tri tip, a whole chicken with cut lemons and a dozen butternut squash halves, while friends chat happily over red wine and cheese. “The key to an asado is that it takes a really long time,” they say jokingly. “All day.” Here in the Bay Area, asado takes on even more importance for Ozzuna. For them, it’s a place for community, acceptance and queer tango.
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A baker's true colors fly with Argentine alfajores and queer tango

Andreas Ozzuna takes asado seriously. Which is surprising, because Ozzuna is actually a baker, the owner of Wooden Table Baking Co. and Wooden Table Cafe in Oakland, where the specialty is Argentinian sweets like alfajores and conitos. But the importance of asado becomes clear in the center of Ozzuna’s lower Oakland hills backyard, which is gorgeously landscaped with large stepping stones and shrubs. For there sits an Argentine parrilla, a wood-fired grill hand-built from cement, bricks and a cast iron grate. Ozzuna — who prefers the pronouns “they” and “them” — stands proudly at the parrilla on a sunny day that makes you forget it’s winter, patiently charring tri tip, a whole chicken with cut lemons and a dozen butternut squash halves, while friends chat happily over red wine and cheese. “The key to an asado is that it takes a really long time,” they say jokingly. “All day.” Here in the Bay Area, asado takes on even more importance for Ozzuna. For them, it’s a place for community, acceptance and queer tango.
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